Those looking for places steeped in history usually look up at old castle ruins or classic magnificent buildings. Sometimes, however, it’s worth looking straight down into the depths to discover something new. Just under an hour’s drive north of Vienna lies a hidden underground labyrinth of sand that is truly impressive due to its enormous scale.
Larger than the above-ground road network
The sheer scale of this structure is hard to grasp by today’s standards. Beneath the residents’ feet lies a historic cellar system stretching some 20 kilometers in total length. What makes it fascinating is the construction method, as the tunnels are dug up to 20 meters deep into the soft quartz sand and connect nearly all the houses on the Baroque town square.
This sprawling complex began to take shape as early as 1279, when the city was granted the lucrative right to sell wine. Since the winemakers at the time needed an enormous amount of space for storage, they simply dug floor by floor into the ground. This is how the Retzer Erlebniskeller came into being—Austria’s largest historic wine cellar complex, which in terms of area even significantly exceeds the city’s above-ground street network.
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Constant cold and dark tunnels
The compacted natural sand maintains a constant temperature of 10 to 12 degrees Celsius year-round. So be sure to pack a jacket for the excursion, even if it’s the height of summer outside in the Weinviertel. The cellar’s structure is so stable that the tunnels have managed for centuries without any artificial retaining walls or brick vaults.
Since you would immediately get lost in the vast maze of side passages without guidance, access is strictly permitted only with trained guides. During the approximately 90-minute tour through the vaults, you’ll learn the hard facts and stories of the wine merchants of yesteryear. At the end of the tour, a classic tasting of a Weinviertel DAC awaits you in a historic setting.
For weekend trips, we recommend the direct train connection from Vienna Central Station, which takes you to the station in just under 70 minutes. If you’re driving via the S3, you’ll find plenty of free parking right on the main square, where the descent into the cool depths begins.
🍷 Retzer Erlebniskeller
📍 Address: Hauptplatz 30, 2070 Retz
💰 Admission: Adults €17
