When Otto Wagner’s light rail system opened in 1898, it was regarded as a symbol of a modern, self-assured Vienna. The Ziegelbögen stretched along the Gürtel, elegantly structured and bearing Wagner’s distinctive signature. Wagner designed not only the viaducts but also station buildings, bridges, and details—right down to the railings—that gave the city railway a unified look. What was intended as a transportation structure soon came to define the entire neighborhood below it.
From Red-Light District to Trendy Hotspot
Over the course of the 20th century, however, the area underwent a fundamental transformation. The Gürtel became Vienna’s red-light district, and the Ziegelbögen were overshadowed by this reputation. The image was rough, the neighborhood was considered disreputable, and many Viennese deliberately avoided the area. Yet the appeal of the arches had long been obvious: space, history, and a distinctive atmosphere.
Today, 128 years after its opening, a different picture emerges. Bars and restaurants have established themselves in the historic arches, gaining fame far beyond the district. The Chelsea, the Rhiz, and the B72 are prime examples of a scene that combines music, club culture, and lively evenings beneath the old brick vaults. Where the subway still rolls overhead, night owls, music fans, and regulars gather. The architecture, once merely a backdrop, has become a hallmark.
Fourteen Open Doors Under the Ziegelbögen on Sunday
Just how diverse this scene is can be experienced this Sunday: 14 venues along the Gürtel are opening their doors and inviting visitors in for free. Anyone who’s curious can explore the spaces that once hardly anyone wanted to enter and, in doing so, learn how a piece of the city’s history has reinvented itself. Free admission lowers the barrier to entry and makes the Gürtel accessible to everyone who has hesitated to visit until now.
The Gürtel thus demonstrates how transformation can succeed. What was once an unloved outskirt has become a place where Wagner’s architecture takes center stage once again and Vienna showcases its lively, unpretentious side. A stroll beneath the arches is well worth it—especially on a Sunday.
